Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
